It's a jbl d130. GPA doesn't have anything for it I checked. I got it from simply speakers. My other woofer reads 6.3. guess I'll call SS Monday and see if they have any ideas. Thx again.
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It's a jbl d130. GPA doesn't have anything for it I checked. I got it from simply speakers. My other woofer reads 6.3. guess I'll call SS Monday and see if they have any ideas. Thx again.
Dang! I corrected it as soon as I posted it, but guess you didn't see it in time.
You're welcome! Good luck with it; unfortunately, 'jumping into the deep end of pool' wearing a blindfold hasn't worked out too well for you so far. :(
Oh well, best way to learn quick and retain it, just don't hurt yourself in the process.
GM
Yes I jumped from the high dive. Lol. I do with most whatever I do. I'm down but not out yet. Monday I'll call some speaker people and see why. I just don't get it unless something was wrong with the voice coil. Its a pretty simple operation. But I also have a few other options. It will cost me $$. But I'm in now and not going backwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
If I don't have issues and make mistakes, like you mentioned. I'll never learn :)
You got on board this train at an entry fee that should come with some expectation of this. But, don't sweat it. When you get them up and running you;re still gonna be in well under the radar for what you will have, and how good they will sound.Quote:
It will cost me $$. But I'm in now and not going backwards.
OK so jbl d130 has a aluminum dust cap. I didn't have enough glue around the top of voice coil to put a barrier between the cap and coil. It was shorting out the coil. So I cut off dust cap and damn if he wasn't right. Now it's testing 7.5.
I almost cut apart the whole recone kit last night , glad I didn't.
So I'm back in bizz!!! I'm taking the 902's out of the model15 and putting them on my 511's. Putting the 808's in the m15's. Thanks Billwojo for the advise!!!
Should have these up and running shortly.
Well these up and running and so good!!!
I got like 3 hours sleep last night. And tonight isn't looking any better.
Thank you everyone for all your incredible help and expertise. If I lived close to you guys I'd take you all out for beers.
Going to invest the proceeds of my model 15's sale into some 1600hz xovers.
Thanks again
So after a few weeks of testing, and from some of you guys advice, dampening my room a little. I've come to some conclusions. One is my phonostage sucks :) even with a pair of low noise Telefunkens it just too noisy with these efficient speakers.
#2 I need to brace inside my cabinets better knocking on the sides is a little ringy and echoey and ill add more dampening material. Which I just got.
I will look around for some bracing ideas.
The n801 w new caps is a good xover but I'd like to test it against a 1600hz which with the help of you guys and some old threads here, I got everything sorted and ready to buy and build. Going to use screw down lug terminal boards so I can test different caps down the road. Thinking of dampening from another thread. I built a mold for liquid elastomer, I have leftover from fixing a leaky roof and poured it in about 1/2" deep, it makes a nice rubber base, and some leftover 1x8 poplar or maple boards (forgot what I have)is what I will build the xovers on.
You guys may think I'm crazy but I'm going with really nice furutech binding posts. They are pricey but I have nice speaker wires and I want to run good wire all the way, with some nice hook up wire as well.
Now with that all said, I'm not bracing these cabinets, I was just testing the size and everything else, I think the size is perfect , although the 3" legs I put on make it a little too high. Ill leave them off the next build. I'm building a new cabinet soon, and the next will be my keepers, and I got a great plan in mind. And I'm going all out.
I need a good hook up wire, one I can run to wire my xovers and maybe double up to run out to binding posts, and drivers. Any links or suggestion is greatly appreciated.
And I'd like to ditch the JBL and altec push posts on my driver's. Something that will match up to the wires I'm running and looks good ( at least for the exposed horn driver) maybe something to solder the wires to the drivers than banana plug the other side into the cabinet. Thank for any advise
Petro,
Didn't read this entire thread, just 'yer last post. Hook up wire. I like M22759/11 . Look it up !!
I like to pay 50 cents a foot, 12 AWG and maybe 40 cents a foot, 14 AWG. Fabulous choice, for the money outlay.
From crossover , to woofer ( 515B in my case ) , double 12 AWG to each woofer POLARITY, and to HF driver ( 802 in my case) single runs of 14 AWG M22759./11. ( M22759/11 14 )
I use multiples and divisors of my first audio mentor, Bob Fulton's 57 1/8th inch length, whenever possible.
I wired crossover with double 14 AWG, same wire, Mil Spec, and I got RID of lead lengths coming out of the inductors, as quickly as I could, or maybe I should say, as short a lead length out of the inductor, as I could. Yes, I eliminated ALL the stock ALTEC push to fit connectors - yuccky sounding - last year. Very nice difference. Use Wonder Solder, or second choice, Ersin Multicore 60-40, with ventilation...out doors or a fan and a mask.
Ideally, we should have NO POTS in our crossovers, use fixed Ohmite wirewound Rs, equal values in both speakers. Use the room to make any additional adjustments. Pots have wiper to coil distrotions that are a serious and constant degrade of the audio. Verbotten !!
Have fun, let me know how well you like it.
Low Ohms ...... Jeff Medwin
Thanks for the info Jeff I will go look up that wire and solder now!!
A cautionary footnote: 'MIL spec' just means that it meets a specific set of [usually] very narrow manufacturing tolerances, but does not indicate any [other] sort of performance excellence Vs consumer or industrial grade at an often fraction of the cost since 'rock solid' reliable performance under [very] adverse conditions at the lowest cost is the goal, not necessarily the lowest distortion/whatever performance we can afford.
GM